You’ll follow cheese from cow to table on this Puglia day trip: meet local makers at Masseria Fragnite near Ostuni, walk through stables and ancient woods, watch mozzarella come together in the dairy, then sit down for a generous tasting—fresh cheeses, cured meats, focaccia and Apulian wine included. It’s slow-paced and hands-on; you might leave thinking differently about mozzarella forever.
“Mozzarella is like a child,” our guide said, hands moving quick and gentle through the warm curds. “You have to feel when it’s ready.” I’d never thought about cheese that way, but standing inside the dairy at Masseria Fragnite, watching steam curl up from the vats and hearing the soft slap of curd being stretched, it made sense. There was this earthy smell—milk and straw and something green from the woods outside. We’d just walked past cows lazing in the shade, their bells clinking softly, and I remember thinking how quiet it all felt compared to the city.
The tour started with stories about what “masseria” really means here in Puglia. Our guide switched between English and French (I tried my best Italian—Li laughed at my accent), explaining how these old farmhouses were once little worlds of their own. We wandered through stables where calves blinked at us, then out by the edge of Fragni wood where pigs rooted around like they owned the place. It wasn’t rushed—nobody hurried us along. The air had that late-morning warmth that makes you want to slow down anyway.
I didn’t expect to get so into the details of cheese-making, honestly. But watching the mastro casaro work—he barely looked up as he twisted mozzarella into knots or pinched off rounds for burrata—it was kind of hypnotic. When we finally sat down under an old olive tree for our tasting plate (mozzarella still warm, caciocavallo firmer and salty), I could taste how close everything was: milk from those cows, bread baked just hours before, even tomatoes that smelled like sunshine. The capocollo was a surprise favorite—never thought I’d like cured pork so much.
There’s something about eating food right where it’s made that sticks with you. Maybe it’s just knowing who made it—or maybe it’s those little things: jam on fresh ricotta, taralli so crunchy they almost hurt your teeth, someone pouring another glass of local wine before you even ask. I still think about that first bite of burrata sometimes when I’m back home in my kitchen, which is nothing like a masseria but…you know?
The tour is held at Masseria Fragnite near Ostuni in Puglia.
Yes, you’ll taste fresh mozzarella, burrata or stracciatella, caciocavallo and other cheeses plus local cold cuts.
Yes—the guide speaks French as well as English if you request it.
Yes—the masseria is wheelchair accessible and infants can join in strollers or prams.
It’s best to wear closed shoes and dress for outdoor weather since part of the tour is outside.
You can bring pets except inside the mozzarella factory; note there are animals on site.
The experience usually takes half a day including tastings and guided visits.
Your day includes a guided walk around Masseria Fragnite with stops in the stables and dairy rooms; explanations in English (or French if you ask); generous tastings of mozzarella, burrata or stracciatella plus caciocavallo and other cheeses; local cured meats; focaccia or homemade bread; seasonal vegetables; Apulian wine; all entry fees and taxes are covered too.
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