6-Day Mount Quitaraju Climb: Huaraz 6,040m Alpine

The summit sits at 6,040 metres on a narrow ridge between Alpamayo and Huascarán, both visible from the top.

This 6-day expedition climbs Mount Quitaraju (6,040m) in Peru's Cordillera Blanca, starting from Huaraz. You trek through high-altitude valleys, camp on glaciers, and ascend the French route (a 60 to 70 degree ice wall) to reach the summit in a single push from high camp. Local guides, porters and a cook support the entire climb. You descend the same day in 2–3 hours if conditions allow.

Step-by-step itinerary

Day 1: Transfer and hike to Amapampa Camp

• Breakfast in Huaraz
• Minibus to Santa Valley
• Private car to Portachuelo Pass
• Arrive at Vaqueria village
• Meet pack animals
• Hike to Huaripampa camp
• Trek to Amapampa camp
• Overnight in tents

Day 2: Cross Punta Union Pass to Base Camp

• Cross Punta Union Pass
• Photo stop at pass
• Descend to Taullipampa camp
• Continue to Quitaraju Base Camp
• Overnight in tents

Day 3: Trek to Moraine Camp

• Breakfast at Base Camp
• Prepare expedition equipment
• Set out with local team
• Hike across glacier moraine
• Arrive at Moraine Camp
• Overnight in tents

Day 4: Ascend to High Camp

• Move to Alpamayo High Camp
• View summit from camp
• Early dinner
• Overnight in tents

Day 5: Summit Quitaraju and descend

• Early start for summit
• Climb French route
• Reach Quitaraju summit
• Rest and take photos
• Rappel down to High Camp
• Descend to Base Camp or stay at High Camp
• Overnight in tents

Day 6: Descend and transfer to Huaraz

• Early rise and start descent
• Hike through Santa Cruz valley
• Arrive at Cashapampa
• Minibus transfer to Huaraz
• Lodging at hotel

The experience

The climb begins with a minibus transfer north from Huaraz to the Santa Valley, then a private car over Portachuelo Pass (4,650m) to the village of Vaqueria, where pack animals take over. From there, you trek the Huaripampa valley to Amapampa Camp (4,250m), gaining altitude gradually over the first two days. On day three, you cross Punta Union Pass (4,750m) (a high point that opens views of the Santa Cruz valley and the route ahead), then descend to Quitaraju Base Camp (4,300m), where the mountain comes into view.

Days four and five are the push to altitude. You climb to the Moraine Camp (4,900m) across the glacier tongue, then to High Camp (5,300m) on the steep glacier itself, where Alpamayo and the summit ridge appear close enough to touch. The ascent takes 6–7 hours. The descent 2–3 hours. On summit day, you leave High Camp in darkness and climb the French route (a sustained ice wall that narrows as it rises), then traverse the final metres of the narrow ridge to the top. From the summit, Huascarán (6,768m) is visible to the southwest. After photos and a brief rest, you rappel back down and return to High Camp, or descend all the way to Base Camp if energy allows.

The final day is a 6-hour trek down the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa, where the minibus waits to return you and the local team to Huaraz. A Peruvian qualified guide leads the expedition in English or Spanish. Porters and a cook handle the camp and meals. You sleep in two-person tents throughout, and all food is provided. Bring your own climbing gear (boots, ice axe, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat and Goretex jacket), and be prepared for high altitude and sustained steep climbing.

What’s included

• All meals during the trek and climb.
• a Peruvian qualified guide speaking English or Spanish.
• two porters (one per two climbers), a donkey driver with pack animals for the lower sections, and a cook.
• camping tents for two people.
• kitchen equipment.
• entrance fees to Huascaran National Park.
• minibus transport from Huaraz to the Santa Valley and back from Cashapampa to Huaraz.

Before you book

Days and timesEvery dayDeparts at 08:00

Book up to2d before

AgesAdult (18 to 70 years) · Under 18: can't be booked

GroupUp to 16

Live guideEnglish and Spanish

Meeting point and pickupNo hotel pickup: you go to the meeting point. Ends back at the starting point.

Cancellation and refundsFree cancellation up to 24 h before the start. After that, no refund.It may be canceled due to bad weather or if the minimum number of travelers isn't reached. If that happens, you're offered another date or a refund.

Prices and times updated yesterday

Good to know

Physically demandingNot recommended during pregnancyNot recommended with heart problemsNot recommended with back problems

Operated by Peru Expeditions Tours

Is this one for you?You arrange and bring your own climbing gear (ice axe, crampons, harness, boots, sleeping bag, mat and Goretex jacket), so this expedition suits climbers who own or can rent technical equipment and have high-level fitness and mountaineering experience. The local team handles the camp, food and logistics, freeing you to focus on the climb itself.

Top questions

What languages is the tour guided in?

Live guide in English and Spanish.

What happens if it rains?

It may be canceled due to bad weather. If that happens, you're offered another date or a refund. Free cancellation up to 24 h before the start.

What is the French route on Quitaraju?

The French route is a 60 to 70 degree wall of ice that forms the main climbing line on Quitaraju's face. It narrows toward the top, and above the wall you traverse a few metres of narrow ridge to reach the 6,040m summit. The ascent from High Camp takes 6–7 hours.

How much time do I spend at altitude above 5,000 metres?

You reach Moraine Camp (4,900m) on day four, then High Camp (5,300m) on day five. From High Camp you climb to the summit (6,040m) and return the same day, or stay another night if tired. Most climbers descend to Base Camp or High Camp on summit day, spending two nights above 5,000 metres.

What do the porters and local guides carry?

Two climbers share one porter for the expedition. The local team also includes a donkey driver with pack animals for the lower valley sections, a cook who prepares all meals at camp, and a Peruvian qualified guide who leads the climb. They handle the tents, kitchen equipment and food throughout the 6 days.

Can I stay an extra night at High Camp if I'm tired on summit day?

Yes. If climbers are tired after the summit push and descent, the team can stay one more night at High Camp (5,300m) before descending to Base Camp the next day. In good weather and with strong climbers, the full ascent and descent can be completed before noon, allowing a same-day return to Base Camp.

What views do I see from Punta Union Pass?

Punta Union Pass (4,750m) opens views of the entire Santa Cruz valley and the trail you will follow for the rest of the trek toward Quitaraju Base Camp. It is a natural stopping point for photos on day two.