4-day Nevado Tocllaraju climb in Huaraz: 6,034 m peak

Glacier crossing and fixed-rope summit on Peru's highest tropical range

A 4-day climbing expedition in Huaraz that ascends Nevado Tocllaraju (6,034 m) in the Cordillera Blanca, the world's highest tropical mountain range. The route crosses glaciers, follows a northwest ridge secured with fixed ropes, and descends within a single summit day. Includes a qualified local guide in English or Spanish, porters, all meals, camping tents and transport from Huaraz. Personal climbing gear and park entrance fees are not included.

Step-by-step itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz to Ishinca Base Camp

• Transfer from Huaraz to Pashpa
• Climb through Ishinca Valley to Base Camp
• Overnight at Ishinca Base Camp

Day 2: Ishinca Base Camp to Moraine Camp

• Ascend steep moraine to glacier edge
• Set up high camp on moraine
• Overnight at Moraine Camp

Day 3: Summit Tocllaraju and Return

• Early breakfast
• Climb glacier to northwest ridge
• Summit Tocllaraju peak
• Descend to Moraine Camp
• Return to Ishinca Base Camp
• Overnight at Base Camp

Day 4: Return to Huaraz

• Breakfast at Base Camp
• Trek to Pashpa with burro support
• Transfer to Huaraz
• Lunch in Huaraz
• Overnight in hotel

The experience

Quebrada Ishinca is the staging ground for this climb. Day one takes you from Huaraz north to Pashpa (3,400 m), where mule drivers meet you to carry gear through the Ishinca Valley to Base Camp at 4,250 m: a 4–5 hour trek through mountain scenery that frames Ishinca, Urus and Tocllaraju. The second day is a steep moraine ascent to the high camp at 4,950 m, where you sleep before the summit push.

Summit day runs 10–12 hours. After an early breakfast you cross the glacier toward the northwest ridge, where fixed ropes secure the technical climbing. The glacier surface shifts year to year, so ice conditions vary. You may encounter small walls or 60-degree slopes. The summit ridge itself is anchored, and from 6,034 m the view spans the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descent returns you to Base Camp by noon, then back to the lower camp for the night.

The final day is an easy walk down to Pashpa at 3,400 m, with donkeys carrying the camp and your personal kit. You pass through native queñuales forest on the descent, meet your transport, and return to Huaraz for lunch and a hotel night. A qualified local guide leads throughout. Porters handle loads so you carry only a day pack on the climb itself.

What’s included

• A qualified local guide fluent in English or Spanish.
• porters and donkey drivers to carry camping and personal gear.
• all meals during the expedition.
• camping tents for two people.
• kitchen equipment and a cook.
• transport from Huaraz to the trailhead and back.

Before you book

Days and timesEvery dayDeparts at 12:00

Book up to2d before

AgesAdult (18 to 69 years) · Under 18: can't be booked

GroupUp to 15

Live guideEnglish and Spanish

Meeting point and pickupNo hotel pickup: you go to the meeting point. Ends back at the starting point.

Cancellation and refundsFree cancellation up to 24 h before the start. After that, no refund.It may be canceled due to bad weather or if the minimum number of travelers isn't reached. If that happens, you're offered another date or a refund.

Prices and times updated yesterday

Good to know

Moderate physical effortNot recommended during pregnancyNot recommended with heart problemsNot recommended with back problems

Operated by Peru Expeditions Tours

Is this one for you?The guide speaks English or Spanish, so you can choose the language you're comfortable climbing in. The expedition is built for climbers with moderate fitness who have done high-altitude trekking before. The 10–12 hour summit day and technical ice climbing on slopes up to 60 degrees demand acclimatization and prior mountaineering experience.

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Top questions

What languages is the tour guided in?

Live guide in English and Spanish.

What happens if it rains?

It may be canceled due to bad weather. If that happens, you're offered another date or a refund. Free cancellation up to 24 h before the start.

What is the Cordillera Blanca and why is it a climbing destination?

The Cordillera Blanca is the world's highest tropical mountain range, part of the Andes spine of South America. It holds over 50 peaks exceeding 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes, making it a mecca for climbers and hikers seeking high-altitude peaks in a region of exceptional scenic variety.

What kind of climbing experience do I need for Tocllaraju?

You need at least a moderate level of physical fitness. The summit day involves glacier crossing and technical ice climbing on slopes up to 60 degrees, with fixed ropes on the ridge itself. The route is demanding and changes year to year depending on glacier conditions.

What do I need to bring, and what is provided?

The expedition includes camping tents, all meals, a local guide, porters and mules to carry gear, plus transport from Huaraz. You must bring personal climbing equipment such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat and weatherproof clothing. Park entrance fees are separate.

How much time is the summit day itself?

Summit day is 10–12 hours, starting before dawn. You cross the glacier, climb the northwest ridge on fixed ropes, reach the 6,034 m peak and descend to Base Camp by noon, then continue down to the lower camp for the night.