4-Day Nevado Chopicalqui Climbing Expedition: Huaraz
Summit the fourth-highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca with technical climbing and glacier work
A 4-day climbing expedition on Nevado Chopicalqui (6,354 m) in the Cordillera Blanca near Huaraz, where you ascend via the classic Southwest Ridge with a qualified local guide, camp on the moraine and glacier, and climb sections of technical walls and steep ice to reach the summit. The expedition includes all meals, camping tents, a cook and porters. You'll need previous climbing experience and moderate to good physical fitness.
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Step-by-step itinerary
Day 1: Transfer and trek to Moraine Camp
- Prepare mountaineering equipment
- Transfer via Quebrada Llanganuco
- Trek to Chopicalqui Base Camp
- Ascend to Moraine Camp
- Overnight at camp
Day 2: Climb to Chopicalqui High Camp
- Climb over rocky moraine
- Cross glacier slopes and crevasses
- Camp at High Camp on glacier
- Overnight at camp
Day 3: Summit Chopicalqui and descend
- Climb to Chopicalqui summit
- Cross seracs, crevasses, and technical walls
- Descend to High or Moraine Camp
- Continue descent to Base Camp
- Overnight at camp
Day 4: Return to Huaraz
- Prepare to leave early
- Transfer from camp to highway
- Private bus to Huaraz
- Overnight at hotel
The experience
You start in Huaraz and transfer 3 to 3.5 hours through Quebrada Llanganuco to Chopicalqui Base Camp at 4,350 meters, then trek another 5 hours to Moraine Camp at 4,900 meters where you sleep in a tent. The next day you climb over rocky moraine onto the glacier, cross crevasses and different glacier slopes to reach High Camp at 5,350 meters: a 5 to 6 hour push. On summit day you face the mountain's technical demands: seracs and crevasses to cross, sections of technical walls, and on the final stretch 8 to 10 meters of 75–80 degree slope. The round trip from High Camp takes 10 to 13 hours, descending to camp afterward. On day four you pack out early and return to Huaraz by private transport.
Chopicalqui is the third peak of the Huascarán Massif and the fifth highest in Ancash department: a demanding climb that requires previous mountaineering experience. The summit is considered to offer the best views in the Cordillera Blanca. Your guide speaks English or Spanish and is qualified in alpine climbing. A cook and helper join groups of six or more, and porters carry gear for every two climbers. All meals come with the expedition, along with camping tents, kitchen equipment and transportation from Huaraz. You'll camp on the mountain for three nights and return to a hotel in Huaraz on the final evening.
What’s included
- All meals during the 4-day expedition.
- camping tents (2 persons per tent).
- kitchen equipment.
- a qualified local guide speaking English or Spanish.
- a cook and helper for groups of six or more.
- porters (one per two climbers).
- private transport from Huaraz through Quebrada Llanganuco.
- and a hotel night in Huaraz at the end.
Before you book
Prices and times updated 2 days ago
Operated by Peru Expeditions Tours
Is this one for you?Choose this if you have previous alpine climbing experience and want a technical rock-and-ice ascent. The porter support lets you conserve energy for the summit push rather than load-carrying.
Traveler reviews
Top questions
What languages is the tour guided in?
Live guide in English and Spanish.
What happens if it rains?
It may be canceled due to bad weather. If that happens, you're offered another date or a refund. Free cancellation up to 24 h before the start.
What climbing experience do I need before booking this expedition?
Chopicalqui requires previous climbing experience because the ascent includes technical sections: crevasse crossings, seracs, technical walls and steep ice slopes on the final push to the summit. You should have at least a moderate level of physical fitness and be comfortable with alpine climbing techniques.
What happens on the summit day and how long does it take?
Summit day involves climbing from High Camp (5,350 m) to Chopicalqui's peak at 6,354 meters, crossing seracs and crevasses, climbing technical wall sections, and finishing with 8–10 meters of 75–80 degree slope. The full round trip from camp takes 10 to 13 hours, after which you descend to High Camp or Moraine Camp to sleep.
What meals and accommodation are included during the 4 days?
All meals are included throughout the expedition. You sleep in camping tents on the mountain for three nights: at Moraine Camp (4,900 m), High Camp (5,350 m), and either High Camp or Moraine Camp after the summit, and return to a hotel in Huaraz on the final night.
How does the first day work? What's the transfer and trek like?
Day one begins in Huaraz at 3,100 meters. You transfer 3 to 3.5 hours by private transport through Quebrada Llanganuco to Chopicalqui Base Camp (4,350 m), then trek 5 hours uphill to Moraine Camp (4,900 m) where you camp overnight and prepare your mountaineering gear.
Who else will be on this expedition and what support is provided?
Groups stay small. A qualified local guide leads the climb in English or Spanish. A cook and helper join expeditions of six or more climbers. Porters carry gear for every two climbers, so you're supported throughout the ascent and descent.
4-Day Nevado Chopicalqui Climbing Expedition: Huaraz
4d · EN · ES
from US$ 1,450 per person
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