Step into Jordan’s eastern desert to explore Qasr Amra’s famous frescoes, climb through Kharana’s silent halls, and stand where Lawrence of Arabia once strategized at Azraq Castle. Add a peaceful walk at Azraq Wetlands if you like—this trip brings history alive in places most travelers never reach.
Our driver tapped the steering wheel to an old Arabic song as we left Amman behind, the city’s noise fading into a wide, pale desert. The road stretched out flat and empty, with only the odd goat herder or a distant truck breaking up the view. We chatted about the Umayyad caliphs—our driver seemed to know every odd story about their wild parties and hunting trips out here. It felt strange thinking of these lonely plains as royal playgrounds.
First stop: Qasr Amra. From the outside, it looked almost plain, but inside, those faded frescoes told a different story—wine, music, even a bear dancing on a wall. The air was dry and still, except for our footsteps echoing under the domed ceiling. At Kharana Castle, I ran my hand along cool stone walls marked by centuries of wind and sand. The place was empty except for us and a couple of curious sparrows hopping around the courtyard.
Azraq Castle came last, its black basalt blocks soaking up the midday heat. Our guide pointed out where T.E. Lawrence once planned his next move in a small room overlooking the square. It was easy to imagine him here, waiting out a dust storm or scribbling notes by lantern light. If you’re up for it, there’s also the Azraq Wetland Reserve nearby—a patch of green where water buffalo graze and herons pick through reeds. We wandered the wooden paths for a while; spring is best if you want to see birds everywhere.
The tour usually lasts about 6-7 hours including travel time from Amman and visits to each castle. Adding the Azraq Wetland Reserve may extend your day by an hour or so.
A knowledgeable English-speaking driver is included by default; you can upgrade to have a licensed guide accompany you for more in-depth explanations at each site.
Wear comfortable walking shoes, bring sunscreen and a hat for sun protection, and carry some water—especially in warmer months. The castles have uneven ground and little shade.
Yes, since this is a private tour, you can ask your driver if there’s another castle you’d like to see or spend more time at any stop along the way.
Your day covers hotel pickup and drop-off in Amman with a private air-conditioned vehicle plus onboard Wi-Fi for the drive. Entrance fees for Qasr Amra, Kharana Castle, and Azraq Castle are included unless you have a Jordan Pass—just let your driver know if so. If you choose the wetland option, entry to Azraq Wetland Reserve is covered too, along with time for a self-guided walk on the marsh trail. And if you want deeper insight at each site, there’s an option to add an expert local guide who’ll join from Amman.
Do you need help planning your next activity?