If you want real mountain sunrises without crazy crowds or technical climbs, this trek is for you. You’ll walk through lively villages, forests full of birdsong, and catch views of Annapurna that photos can’t quite capture. Plus: good food, friendly locals, and a guide who knows every shortcut.
We kicked off early in Pokhara, the air still cool and a bit misty as we drove out toward Nayapul. The road’s bumpy in places—don’t expect a smooth ride—but that’s part of the charm. At Nayapul, our guide Ramesh checked our permits and we set off on foot. The first stretch winds through small villages where you’ll see kids heading to school and women already busy with morning chores. There’s this earthy smell from the fields after last night’s rain. By midday, we started the climb up to Ulleri—those stone steps seem endless, but you get used to the rhythm. We reached Ulleri just as the sun dipped behind the hills, legs tired but spirits high. The tea house here is simple but cozy; I remember the owner’s dog curled up by the stove.
The next morning, after a quick cup of sweet Nepali tea, we headed for Mohorai Danda. The trail cuts through thick rhododendron forests—if you’re lucky and it’s spring, everything bursts with red and pink flowers. You’ll hear birds everywhere; I spotted a couple of shy langurs darting between trees. Every now and then, Annapurna peeks through gaps in the canopy—huge and silent in the distance. Lunch was at a tiny spot in Ghorepani; their dal bhat is nothing fancy but hits just right after hours on your feet.
Day three started before dawn—cold enough for gloves, even in April. We hiked up to Poon Hill with headlamps lighting the way; there were maybe twenty other trekkers at that hour, all waiting quietly for sunrise. When it comes up over Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre… well, it’s hard to describe without sounding cheesy. The light changes every minute—first gold, then pink—and everyone just stands there watching. Afterward, we made our way back down for breakfast in Ghorepani before trekking on to Tadapani. The path gets quieter here; you mostly hear your own footsteps and distant cowbells.
The last day took us down through more Gurung villages—stone houses with blue tin roofs—and finally back to Ulleri. We hopped into a shared jeep at Ghandruk for the bumpy ride down to Nayapul (the driver played old Nepali pop songs). Back in Pokhara by late afternoon, dusty but happy—and honestly ready for a hot shower.
If you’re reasonably fit and okay with lots of stairs (especially up to Ulleri), it’s very doable—even if you haven’t trekked much before.
Layers are key! Mornings are chilly but afternoons warm up fast. Bring rain gear if it’s monsoon season—trails can get muddy.
You’ll find Wi-Fi (for a small fee) at most tea houses in bigger villages like Ghorepani or Ulleri; electricity is available but sometimes patchy.
Your trip covers all transfers from Pokhara—including private car rides and shared jeep transport on day four—plus an English-speaking guide who really knows these trails. Permits (TIMS card included), hotel pickup/drop-off, and nightly lodge stays are sorted so you can focus on walking and soaking it all in.
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