You’ll ride through Battambang’s villages by tuk tuk with a local guide, wave back at kids shouting hello, try the original bamboo train before it disappears, stand quietly inside the killing cave, and watch millions of bats swirl into dusk. It’s honest travel — sometimes heavy, sometimes joyful.
Li, our driver, grinned when I asked about the statue with the big stick — he said it’s Lok Ta Dambong Kra Nhoung, Battambang’s symbol. He didn’t rush us; we just stood there for a bit as scooters zipped past and someone nearby was frying something that smelled sweet and smoky. You know that feeling when you’re in a place that isn’t trying to impress you? That’s what Battambang felt like right away.
We bumped along in the tuk tuk through little villages where kids yelled “HELLO! HELLO!” at us until we waved back (I think my wave was awkward but they laughed anyway). Li pointed out fruit farms and pagodas along the river — Kampong Pil Pagoda was bright gold in the afternoon sun, almost blinding. We stopped on this rickety bridge for photos; I got nervous when a scooter crossed behind me but Li just shrugged like it happens every hour. The countryside here is green but not showy — more lived-in than postcard-perfect.
The bamboo train was next. I’d read about it but didn’t expect how fast it felt, rattling over the tracks with wind whipping my hair and fields flashing by. Li said this might be the last year for the original bamboo train — apparently the government’s planning to close it soon. It’s five bucks extra but worth it just for that weird floating feeling as you zip past tiny houses and cows staring at you like you’re the odd one.
Phnom Sampov is where things got heavy. The killing cave… I don’t know how to describe standing inside a place like that, seeing real skulls in a stupa while monks chant somewhere above. It’s quiet except for monkeys fighting over scraps outside (don’t get too close — one tried to steal my water bottle). Afterward we climbed up for views and waited near the bat cave as dusk came on. Suddenly millions of bats poured out in this twisting black ribbon — everyone just stared, mouths open, not really talking. I still think about that moment sometimes, how small I felt under all those wings.
Yes, pickup from your hotel or restaurant in Battambang is included.
The bamboo train ride costs $5 per person and is paid on site.
The tour starts at 1:00pm with pickup from your accommodation.
Yes, entrance fees for both caves are included in your booking.
Yes, infants can join; prams or strollers are allowed and infants must sit on an adult’s lap.
You can walk up or take a motorbike or pickup truck to reach the top of Phnom Sampov.
No lunch is included; bottled water is provided though.
The bats fly out over 30 to 40 minutes around sunset each evening.
Your afternoon includes private tuk tuk transportation with a local guide who picks you up from your hotel or restaurant in Battambang, bottled water throughout the journey, all entrance fees for both killing cave and bat cave sites, plus drop-off back at your accommodation after sunset.
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