You’ll cross shifting dunes by foot with a local guide, swim in crystal-clear lagoons only found deep inside Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, share meals with native families in tiny oases villages, and fall asleep in hammocks under open sky—experiences that stick with you long after your boots are clean again.
Someone hands me a cup of sweet coffee before sunrise, and I’m still half asleep when our boat leaves Barreirinhas. The river is glassy and quiet except for the engine’s hum and the occasional shout from kids waving along the bank. Our guide, João, points out Vassouras — “Monkey Island,” he says — and sure enough, there’s a flash of brown fur in the trees. We stop for a bit; I try to feed one a banana but it just stares at me like I’m clueless (maybe I am). Caburé comes next, where the sand feels warm even under cloudy skies. Lunch is fish — fresh, salty — eaten with my feet buried in sand while João tells us about storms that reshape this whole place every year.
At Atins we pile into a rattling 4x4; it’s bumpy enough to make me laugh out loud. Then we’re walking — nine kilometers through dunes that look endless, white as flour, with blue-green lagoons tucked between them like someone forgot their paint set here. The wind keeps shifting everything around so you never really know what’s coming next. By late afternoon we reach Baixa Grande, an oasis where hammocks hang between crooked trees and someone’s grilling something smoky nearby. Sunset here isn’t quiet — there’s laughter from other trekkers and locals chatting in Portuguese that I only half understand. But it feels good to just sit and listen.
The second day is longer: fourteen kilometers to Rancharia. My legs complain but then we find another lagoon — cool water on sunburned skin is pure relief. João knows all the best spots for photos but also when to let us just float in silence for a while. Lunch is simple but filling; beans, rice, maybe some chicken if you’re lucky. In the afternoon I end up talking with Dona Maria about her childhood here (well, mostly listening — my Portuguese is terrible). She laughs when I try to say “obrigado” properly.
The last morning starts early again; we head toward Lagoa do Cajueiro, which curves around like a question mark and shimmers green under the sun. Ten more kilometers doesn’t sound so bad now that my feet are used to sand everywhere (I’ll be finding it in my shoes for weeks). There’s a weird peace in this emptiness — just wind, footsteps, sometimes birds overhead. When we finally reach Santo Amaro for pickup back to civilization, part of me wants another night in the hammock instead.
This trek requires high physical fitness due to long daily walks (up to 14 km) over sand dunes and uneven terrain.
Yes, lunch is included each day at local restaurants or community stops along the route.
You sleep in hammocks (“redario”) at oasis villages such as Baixa Grande and Rancharia each night.
Yes, private air-conditioned vehicle transfers are included from Barreirinhas to Atins and at the end from Santo Amaro.
No; it’s not recommended for travelers with spinal injuries, pregnancy, or poor cardiovascular health.
Yes; there are several stops for swimming in natural lagoons throughout Lençóis Maranhenses National Park.
Yes; your guide will be a local familiar with both the landscape and communities along the route.
Your journey includes private transportation from Barreirinhas by boat and 4x4 vehicle transfers where needed; all nights spent sleeping in traditional hammocks at oasis villages; daily lunches at local restaurants or community homes; guidance throughout by an experienced local guide familiar with Lençóis Maranhenses’ unique landscapes and people.
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