El Altar Volcano Trek: Yellow Lagoon & Collanes Valley Hike

Summary

El Altar’s wild trails glaciers and yellow lagoon on foot

You’ll trek through Ecuador’s wild Collanes Valley with a local guide, sleep in a mountain refuge beneath El Altar Volcano, and wake early to reach Yellow Lagoon as sunlight hits the glaciers above you. Expect muddy boots, hot soup after long hikes, and moments of real silence you can feel in your bones.

What’s the experience like?

“Wait, that’s the trail?” I remember laughing as our guide, Carlos, pointed out a narrow path winding up through misty grasslands outside Baños. The drive had been quiet — just the hum of tires and a few sleepy jokes — but stepping onto the land at Hacienda Rey Leche, everything felt sharper. There was this smell of wet earth and something sweet, maybe wildflowers or just the morning air in Chimborazo. Carlos grinned and said in Kichwa it’s Kapak Urku — “the powerful mountain.” I tried to repeat it; he laughed. I probably butchered it.

The first hours hiking toward Collanes Valley were muddy but weirdly peaceful. My boots kept slipping on mossy stones, and every time I looked up El Altar’s snowy peaks would peek out then vanish behind clouds again. We stopped for lunch — sandwiches wrapped in foil, hands cold but spirits high. Someone pointed out a hummingbird darting between purple flowers (I missed it). By late afternoon we reached the refuge. It’s simple: bunk beds, creaky floors, everyone peeling off damp socks and trading stories about other treks gone sideways. Dinner tasted better than it should have after 12 kilometers — hot soup, rice, chicken — maybe because we’d earned it.

I barely slept (snoring from the next bunk didn’t help), but at 5am Carlos was already pouring coffee into tin mugs. The walk to Laguna Amarilla started before sunrise; my breath came out in little clouds and my fingers stung from cold. When we reached the rim, there it was: Yellow Lagoon below us like a secret caught in stone, ringed by glaciers hanging off El Altar’s walls. Nobody said much for a minute or two — just boots crunching frost and wind whistling past our ears. I still think about that view sometimes when city life gets too loud.

Step-by-step itinerary

Day 1 — Travel and hike to El Altar refuge

• Depart Baños at 07:00 am
• Arrive Hacienda Rey Leche at 09:30 am
• Start walk at 10:00 am
• Have box lunch at 01:00 pm
• Arrive El Altar refuge at 05:00 pm
• Dinner at 07:30 pm

Day 2 — Visit yellow lagoon and return

• Refreshment at 05:00 am
• Start walk at 05:30 am
• Visit yellow lagoon at 08:00 am
• Return to El Altar refuge at 09:30 am
• Have box lunch at 12:00 pm
• Return to Hacienda Rey Leche at 01:00 pm
• Arrive Baños at 05:00 pm

Top questions

How long is the El Altar Volcano trek?

The main hike covers about 12 km each way to Collanes Valley plus additional distance to reach Yellow Lagoon on day two.

Is this tour suitable for beginners?

No—travelers should have at least moderate physical fitness due to long hiking distances and altitude.

Where does the tour start?

The tour departs from Baños de Agua Santa with pickup included.

What is included in the price?

The price includes ground transportation, certified local guide, entrance to Rey Leche farm, four meals (box lunches & dinner), lodging at El Altar refuge, and activity photos.

Are drinks or snacks provided during trekking?

No—additional drinks or snacks are not included; bring your own if needed.

What should I pack for El Altar Volcano trekking?

Bring warm waterproof clothing, sturdy boots, hat, gloves, backpack, water bottle, sunscreen, flashlight and personal first aid kit.

Is there public transportation nearby?

No—there is no public transport near the starting point; private transfer is included with booking.

Can infants join this trek?

No—infants must sit on an adult's lap during transport but trekking itself is not suitable for young children or strollers.

What’s included

Your journey includes pickup from Baños de Agua Santa by air-conditioned vehicle, certified local guide throughout both days of trekking El Altar Volcano and Collanes Valley trails, entry to Hacienda Rey Leche farm, overnight stay at the mountain refuge with hot meals (box lunches plus dinner), plus photos of your adventure before returning late afternoon on day two.