If you want real Himalayan adventure without crowds or frills, this Annapurna Base Camp trek gives you mountain views, local culture in Gurung villages, hot springs to ease your legs—and plenty of stories you’ll remember long after you’re home.
Pokhara’s early morning air always feels a bit damp, carrying the scent of last night’s rain. Our group left Kathmandu by tourist bus—seven hours winding beside the Trishuli River, watching tiny roadside tea stalls blur past. By late afternoon, we’d reached Pokhara’s lakeside, where neon café signs flicker and you can hear the soft clang of boats on Phewa Lake. That first evening stroll along the water set the mood: relaxed but buzzing with anticipation.
The next day started early—breakfast was quick (masala omelet and sweet chai), then a bumpy drive to Siwai. From there, boots hit the trail towards Ghandruk. The path wound through terraced fields and clusters of rhododendrons. Ghandruk itself is mostly Gurung families; kids played marbles near stone houses, and our guide, Ramesh, pointed out the small Gurung museum tucked behind a prayer flag-draped gate. If you’re lucky with timing, you might catch women weaving baskets outside their homes.
Leaving Ghandruk, we climbed steadily to Chhomrong. The sun came out strong by mid-morning—felt it on my neck as we passed Kimrungdanda’s viewpoint (Annapurna South looked impossibly close). After a steep descent to Kimrong Khola and another push uphill to Chere Danda, we finally reached Chhomrong village. Here, dal bhat never tasted better—especially after all those stone steps.
The next stretch down from Chhomrong is famous for its endless stairs—over 2,000 if you’re counting (I stopped at 500). Crossing the swaying bridge over Chhomrong Khola felt like walking on air for a second. The forest after Sinuwa was thick and cool; birdsong echoed between mossy trunks until we reached Bamboo village for the night.
Bamboo to Deurali brought us through chilly bamboo groves where everything smelled green and earthy. After Himalaya Hotel, sunlight finally broke through as we climbed higher—the valley opened up below us with waterfalls tracing silver lines down sheer cliffs. Hinku Cave was just a quick stop for photos before pushing on to Deurali’s tea house.
The big day: Deurali to Annapurna Base Camp via Machhapuchhre Base Camp. The air got thinner; every step felt heavier but more rewarding somehow. At Machhapuchhre Base Camp (locals call it “Fishtail” for its shape), snow peaks circled us like silent sentinels—Annapurna I looming above all else. The last stretch into base camp was surreal: no trees left, just rock and sky and that wild sense of being somewhere sacred. Sunset painted everything gold while our group huddled around mugs of salty soup.
Heading back down felt easier on the lungs but tough on tired knees—we retraced our steps to Bamboo with plenty of stops for ginger tea along the way. At Jhinudanda, there’s a hidden gem: natural hot springs about 15 minutes’ walk downhill from the village. Soaking sore muscles while listening to river sounds was pure relief after days on foot.
The final morning trek took us past wild bee hives clinging under rocky cliffs—a detail Ramesh said most trekkers miss if they’re not looking up! Lunch was simple but hearty at a roadside shack before catching our ride back to Pokhara for one last lakeside evening.
This trek requires moderate fitness—you’ll be hiking several hours daily with some steep climbs and descents. Prior trekking experience helps but isn’t required if you’re active and healthy.
Meals aren’t included by default but are available at tea houses along the route—expect lots of dal bhat (rice and lentils), noodles, soups, eggs, and some snacks like momos or pancakes.
Yes! There’s an option to fly for an extra fee per person each way—it saves time if your schedule is tight or you want to avoid long road travel.
You’ll find basic Wi-Fi (for a fee) at some tea houses in larger villages like Ghandruk or Chhomrong; electricity is available most nights but bring a power bank just in case.
Your trip covers all ground transport by air-conditioned vehicle between Kathmandu and Pokhara (bus included; flights optional), guided trekking with local experts who know every shortcut and story along the trail, comfortable stays at selected hotels in Pokhara plus cozy tea houses en route—and plenty of advice from folks who’ve actually walked these paths before!
Do you need help planning your next activity?