Naples: Santa Luciella Skull Church Tour & Underground Stories

Summary

Naples’ cult of the dead comes alive beneath Santa Luciella’s ancient stones

You’ll walk through Naples’ Santa Luciella church with a local guide, hear true stories about the cult of the dead, and see the legendary “skull with ears” in its underground home. Touch ancient stones, read tiny prayer notes left by strangers, and feel connected to lives long gone — maybe more than you expect.

What’s the experience like?

The first thing that hit me was the smell — not musty exactly, but old, like paperbacks left out in the rain and then dried in the sun. We’d barely stepped into the Church of Santa Luciella when our guide, Francesca, grinned and waved us over to a chipped marble stairway. She told us about Neapolitans coming here for centuries, whispering prayers to a skull with ears (yes, actual ears — I had to see it to believe it) because they thought it listened better than most saints. People still leave notes down there. One was folded so tiny I could barely read it.

Going underground felt like slipping sideways in time. The walls were rough and cool if you brushed your hand along them — I did, mostly by accident when my phone buzzed and startled me. There were rows and rows of skulls, but Francesca pointed out “il teschio con le orecchie,” sitting right in the middle like some weird little king. She said locals used to ask favors from it, hoping for miracles or just small mercies. Someone had left a single white flower next to it; I don’t know why that got me more than anything else.

I tried saying “teschio con le orecchie” out loud and probably mangled it — Francesca laughed and corrected me gently. It’s strange how quiet it is down there, except for her voice echoing off the stone and sometimes a car horn from above. She explained how this place was shut for thirty years until some young folks from Breathe Art Association fought to reopen it. Now they’re saving jobs as well as old bones. That part stuck with me.

Step-by-step itinerary

Day 1 — Visit Church and underground cemetery

• Arrive at Church of Santa Luciella
• Join guided tour of church
• Explore underground cemetery
• See skull with ears relic
• Learn about cult of Souls in Purgatory
• Support Breathe Art Association project

Top questions

Is the Santa Luciella Skull Church tour wheelchair accessible?

Yes, all areas and surfaces are wheelchair accessible on this tour.

Are infants or small children allowed on this Naples church tour?

Yes, infants can sit on an adult’s lap or ride in a pram or stroller during the visit.

Does this tour include a local guide?

Yes, your experience includes a knowledgeable local guide throughout.

How do I get to Santa Luciella church using public transport?

The church is located near public transportation options in central Naples.

What is special about the “skull with ears” at Santa Luciella?

This unique skull has carved ears; locals believed it could listen to prayers more effectively.

What’s included

Your visit includes entry to Santa Luciella church and its underground cemetery plus a guided tour led by someone who knows every story behind those stones — no need to worry about accessibility or bringing little ones along; everyone’s welcome here.